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Burlington park was military base

- By Wilson Ring
The Associated Press

On a sunny summer morning Battery Park offers one of the most spectacular views of Lake Champlain: the city waterfront in the foreground, sailboats and ferries in the open lake and New York's Adirondacks beyond.

Despite the single decorative cannon, it looks nothing like a fortress, but 190 years ago the bluff was bristling with cannon and Burlington housed about 3,000 soldiers mobilized for the War of 1812.

On Aug. 3, 1813, the fortress showed its worth. Burlington came under attack from a British raiding party commanded by Lt. Col. John Murray that had sailed south out of Canada to plunder commerce and sack government buildings.

"It was my kind of raid. No one was killed," said Paul Searls, an assistant professor of history at the University of Vermont, who has studied Vermont's role in the War of 1812.

What became known as Murray's Raid is a largely forgotten footnote to the War of 1812. But the five-day foray into American waters by Murray and his forces prompted Washington to pour military resources into the lake and it angered many Vermonters enough to fight when, 13 months later, the British moved south again and were defeated at the Battle of Plattsburgh, leading to a negotiated end of the war.

The role of the Burlington garrison in Murray's Raid was a 20-minute artillery duel between the guns on the bluff and the British vessels 1 miles off shore. Most of the shells fell harmlessly into the water, but one ball from a British gunboat did hit a house.

"There is a myth that the shell crashed into the house where (U.S. Naval Commodore Thomas) Macdonough was shaving," Searls said. "These things do tend to become mystical."

During the same foray out of Canada, the British sacked Plattsburgh, N.Y., and Swanton. They burned or took back to Canada eight or nine vessels captured elsewhere on the lake.

One vessel that was burned was the sloop Essex, owned by Burlington businessman Gideon King, for whom the city's King Street is named. The Essex was trying to reach the safety of Burlington harbor -- protected by the cannon in the battery -- when it was becalmed on the lake and captured.

Artifacts from the raid have been found. About 25 years ago Art Cohn, now the executive director of the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum, was leading a scuba diving class near where the Coast Guard station on the waterfront is located now.

He found a 24-pound mortar ball just covered with sand. It was still packed with gunpowder. He can't say for sure, but he said it was most likely fired by the British gunboats off shore.

Throughout the early history of the American colonies and the United States, Lake Champlain was a vital waterway, as strategic then as the Panama Canal in 1940 or the Persian Gulf today.

"The water avenue there going from Montreal to New York City is the key to the empire," Searls said.

The War of 1812 was a conflict that grew out of the British practice of taking seamen off American merchant ships to serve in Royal Navy, interfering with American trade, and American fears the British were stirring up the Indians on the western frontier.

When the lake thawed in the spring of 1813, the Americans, under Macdonough's command, had three armed sloops and a schooner.

"They were masters of the lake," Cohn said.

But in early June Navy Lt. Sydney Smith, disobeying Macdonough's orders, sailed the vessels Growler and Eagle into the Richelieu River, and Canada, in pursuit of a smaller British vessel. It was a trap.

Stuck in the narrow river, Smith surrendered after a four-hour fight. In a day the naval balance of power on the lake was reversed.

About six weeks later, Murray headed south. The Growler and Eagle were now called the Broke and the Shannon. He also commanded three gunboats and 47 bateaux that carried about 1,000 troops.

The raid was intended as a diversion to draw American forces away from other actions on the Great Lakes.

The Americans had been alerted to the British advance and the U.S. commander in Plattsburgh, Gen. Benjamin Moorers, who had several hundred militia troops under his command, sent an urgent message to Burlington asking for reinforcements.

Gen. Wade Hampton, the Army commander in Burlington, didn't send help. Moorers then withdrew his troops.

July 30, the British anchored off Chazy Landing. The next day they landed near Plattsburgh and marched into the town. The soldiers were under orders not to destroy private property, but the orders were forgotten. Much of the town was burned.

The next day Murray split his force. He took about half of the force back north and marched into Swanton. There, government buildings were burned but private property was respected.

Royal Navy Capt. Thomas Everard, sent to Lake Champlain from the St. Lawrence River, commanded the three vessels that sailed to Burlington.

He was trying to lure Macdonough's remaining vessels out into the lake to fight.

"Macdonough refused to accept the challenge, quite wisely," said David Curtis Skaggs, a Michigan historian who wrote a biography of Macdonough.

Everard then sailed south to Shelburne Bay and beyond where he started burning or capturing commercial vessels before then heading back to Canada.

The raid was over.

"Murray's Raid from a British perspective was very easy," Searls said.

But it spurred an arms race. Over the following winter Macdonough built a fleet at Vergennes, led by the flagship USS Saratoga with 26 guns. The British were building ships in Canada. The British frigate HMS Confiance with 37 guns was the largest warship ever to float on Lake Champlain, Cohn said.

In September 1814 the two fleets met at the Battle of Plattsburgh. Macdonough outfought his opponent in Cumberland Bay. The victory in the bay caused the British ground forces to withdraw; the British move south had been thwarted.

Back in Burlington, the battery on the bluff remained in federal hands until 1840, when it was turned over to the city and became the city's second park. City Hall Park was the first, said Bob Whalen, the city's superintendent of park planning.

The cannon in the park today isn't from the War of 1812. There are a half-dozen cannon pads in the park. The other guns were hauled away during World War I to be recycled for the war effort, Whalen said.

"People just don't even think of the historical context of the part it played," Whalen said.

A plaque commemorating Murray's Raid was restored to the park two years ago, but it hasn't attracted much attention.

"I think its primary function now is as a scenic vista," Whalen said. "We really don't get any calls from the public to ask about the history of the park."

Shell likely from Murray's Raid spurred interest in lake history

An underwater military artifact that was probably fired as part of a War of 1812 attack on Burlington helped lead one of Lake Champlain's most prominent historians into his study of the lake.

In 1977 or 1978 diving instructor Art Cohn was leading a class of Middlebury College students out into the lake in Burlington not far from where the Coast Guard station is today when he noticed the shell -- about the size and shape of a bowling ball -- lying in the sand.

He and his students wrestled it to shore and Cohn said he realized what it was, but he didn't know why it was there.

It didn't take long for historians to point him to Murray's Raid, the 1813 attack on Burlington by the British.

"It was almost destiny, really," Cohn said.

He's still not sure the shell was fired during Murray's Raid, but most likely it was a British shell from about 1 miles offshore that didn't reach land, or possibly it's an American shell that fell short after being fired from what is now Battery Park.

Holding the shell underwater, Cohn drilled out a wooden plug and found gunpowder inside. He said he didn't test the powder to see if it was still explosive.

At the time he didn't know it was illegal to remove historical artifacts from the lake. It didn't take long for him to find out.

Within a few days he received a call from the Vermont Division of Historic Preservation.

"It was through those discussions that we realized we were entering a new world of underwater resource management," Cohn said.

A year later the division hired him to do archaeological work on the lake. He remains an employee of the division, responsible for managing the archaeological resources hidden under the water of the lake -- and there are plenty.

Cohn has helped find debris in front of Plattsburgh from the War of 1812 Battle of Plattsburgh; he has found an intact shipwreck from the Revolutionary War Battle of Valcour Island; and he's discovered numerous commercial vessels resting on the bottom of the lake.

It all stems from the shell that probably came from Murray's Raid. The shell sits on his desk at the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum in Ferrisburgh. new ( Display, modify, or delete resource in a separate tab or window.)


Neighborhood braces for next stage in evolution

- By Modisane Kwanza -- Free Press Staff Writer -- COLCHESTER --

As neighborhoods go, there's nothing like this one anywhere else in Vermont:

It's media central, with five radio stations, two TV stations and two recording studios. It has its own budding arts district, with a spectacular performance hall, fine arts studios and theater space.

It's a hub for niche businesses, such as pipe wholesalers and World Wide Web hosting firms. It has a population that might be more diverse than any other area its size in the state.

Fort Ethan Allen is a historical oddity spanning Colchester and Essex that is mostly overlooked by the public at large. However, the 110-year-old fort figures prominently in the plans of several more familiar entities -- not just both towns, but two major landlords, the University of Vermont and St. Michael's College. A commuter rail stop is envisioned at the fort. Dorms and student housing are targeted for upgrades, and small businesses are pushing to expand.

The neighborhood, which has evolved in fits and starts, is poised for more change. The question is what form that change will take, and whether the fort will be able to maintain its character.


With its brick military-style buildings, this doesn't look like a place where you can go to hear the Vermont Youth Orchestra perform, buy a hot tub, or attend an Islamic prayer service.

One of a kind



The fort was built between 1893 and 1904 as a U.S. Army cavalry post. Thousands of troops trained there through World Wars I and II before the complex was retired to civilian use in 1960.

Decommissioned forts in other states have been cobbled up and chopped up, said architect Thom Wood, who has lived on Dalton Drive, or "Officers Row," for 10 years. But not this one.

"In the grand scheme, the fort is relatively intact," Wood said. "We still have a strong historical integrity."

The mix of old and new gives the fort its character. The Firetech Sprinkler Corp. building used to be a stable for the cavalry's horses, and the old hay loft door is still visible at the top of the building. Meanwhile, a media production company, a Web hosting firm, a clothing manufacturer and the Islamic Society of Vermont operate out of a converted horse stable.

Building 1304 -- people at the fort still use the old army parlance instead of street addresses -- started out as troop barracks and is now housing.

Vermont Public Radio is in the old veterinarian hospital. The stockades are apartments, and the Green Mountain Nursing home is in the old post hospital.

"I love the history," said property owner and Fort Ethan Allen authority William Parkinson. "I love being there in the middle of it."

Mixed-used development evolved at Fort Ethan Allen long before that approach came into vogue.

The fort is home to 57 businesses and organizations. UVM owns 35 buildings on 18 acres -- including 22 residential buildings housing approximately 260 students and families. St. Michael's College houses up to 250 students in apartment complexes and dorms at the fort.

According to U.S. Census data, 1,360 people live at the fort, including Winchester Place, a residential development near the Colchester entrance. Fifteen percent of that population is non-white. In Chittenden County, only Winooski comes close to that kind of ethnic and racial diversity, at 7.7 percent.

"There's also age diversity with the nursing home, student housing and private homes," Colchester Town Manager Al Voegele noted. "It's a very dynamic community."
Evolution



The 157-acre fort faced its last big developmental challenge 15 years ago.

In 1987, the University of Vermont decided to sell 21 buildings on Dalton Drive and the parade grounds along Vermont 15. Some feared that the old buildings might be razed or that new construction might detract from the fort's historic ambiance.

In response to those concerns, UVM asked Colchester to come up with a plan for the entire fort, and a fort master plan was unveiled the following year. Among the recommendations: promoting a mix of commercial, institutional and educational uses; rehabilitating buildings; preserving the fort's historic stature; and increasing the tax base by expanding the commercial sector.

That led to utility upgrades, new sewer lines and street repairs. The plan also addressed the demand for more affordable housing. The Colchester Community Development Corp. struck a deal to build 166 affordable units at Winchester Place on land owned by St. Michael's College.

In 1990, the Vermont Housing Financing Agency bought the houses on Officers Row from UVM for $1.5 million. The homes were resold to private owners on the condition that any work on the buildings be done within historical-preservation standards.

That was a small price to pay for the opportunity to live at the fort, said Dalton Drive resident Michael Mansfield-Marcoux, as he repaired an outside stairway recently.

"Just look at it," Mansfield-Marcoux said, with a dramatic wave of the hand toward the street of well-kept brick homes and the 18-acre parade ground. The sun adorned the open green, tall trees and playground. "It's gorgeous."
More change



Transportation brought about dramatic changes at the fort. Between the world wars, buildings and grounds were adapted for motorized vehicles.

Today, another form of transportation promises to shape the fort's future: commuter rail service is under consideration for the Vermont 15 corridor, with a station proposed across the street from the fort. The state has been awarded $4.8 million in federal money for engineering, land purchases and to construct the 8-mile train line.

State transportation planners would like to see commercial activity and residential density gradually increase along the corridor to support the rail service. Bill Knight, director of the regional planning commission, emphasized that "we don't want changes that negatively affect the fort."

The commission is looking at ways to improve access from Vermont 15 and is working with the Vermont National Guard on a proposal for a connector road. The college wants to connect its main campus to the fort so students don't have to walk along Vermont 15, President Marc vanderHeyden said.

At a meeting of the fort parties in August, UVM's Linda Seavey noted that the school is planning extensive rehabilitation of two apartment complexes, County Apartments and Ethan Allen Apartments, from 2003 through 2005.

The fort is about five miles from the main UVM campus. Still, the land holdings at the fort are important to UVM, Seavey said, and are included in the school's 10-year residential life plan, as well as UVM's overall Campus Land Use Master Plan update that is under way.

St. Michael's plans to complete several deferred maintenance projects at its fort properties in the next 10 years, vanderHeyden said. Last summer, the school finished a $750,000 upgrade to the Sloane Arts Center, providing studio space for faculty and students and for the school's artist-in-residence program.

The Vermont Youth Orchestra is leasing its grand performance hall (formerly an armory and gym) from St. Michael's for $1 a year for the next century. The VYO invested $2 million in the project. The school seeks to form a similar partnership to fill its empty theater and chapel at the fort.

"We have to think of the entire neighborhood and not just the college," vanderHeyden said.

Meanwhile, media and technology folks envision a network of fiber-optic connections throughout the fort. A shared media center is not far-fetched, they say.

For example, Scott Esmond of Egan Media Productions envisions recording a VYO concert at the performance hall, sending the recording to his studio to be mixed, and then zipping the recording over to VPR to be aired.

Now is also a good time to reaffirm the goals outlined in the 1988 master plan, others said.

"We need to remember the retail and commercial aspects," said Lori Lawton of Firetech. "In order to live here we need jobs. In order to have jobs, we need commerce."

A task force headed by the Colchester Community Development Corp. is looking at what projects are proposed for the fort and what adjustments could be made. The task force wants to complete its work by January.

A group of small-business owners is working on a list of concerns from the fort's commercial sector -- including zoning changes that would readily permit expansion.

"The town knows there are a great many forces of change converging on that area," Voegele said. "All these forces are descending on this neighborhood. It needs some help to define what the needs are and that's why it's important that the community is in charge, not the town."

Residents, many of whom like the fort just the way it is, are watching closely.
Contact Modisane Kwanza at 660-1833 or mkwanza@bfp.burlingtonfreepress.com.
Fort history

-- 1892: Vermont gives U.S. government 600 acres and buildings for a four-company cavalry post.
-- 1893-1904: Fort Ethan Allen constructed.
-- 1933-1938: Served as headquarters of the Vermont District Civilian Conservation Corps.
-- 1943: Declared inactive, but used for equipment storage through 1947.
-- 1952: U.S. Air Force takes over command of fort.
-- 1960-1962: Fort officially closed, conversion begins from a military base to residential and commercial use.
-- 1961: 787 acres transferred to Vermont National Guard.
-- 1964: University of Vermont and St. Michael's College sign 20-year agreement with the U.S. Education Department under which schools receive gradual control over the land and buildings with the stipulation that they be used for educational purposes.
-- 1987: UVM decides to sell 30 acres and 21 buildings on Dalton Drive, also known as "Officers Row" and the parade grounds along Vermont 15.
-- 1988: Fort Master Plan completed.
-- 1989: Utilities, sewer and water lines upgraded throughout fort with help of $750,000 grant from the state Development and Community Affairs Agency.
-- 1990: Vermont Housing Financing Agency buys "Officers Row" houses from UVM for $1.5 million with plan to turn them into 77 residential units, with at least 25 allocated for affordable housing.
-- 1992: Apartments for low- and moderate-income families opened in building heavily damaged in 1990 fire.
-- 1995: Officers Row units completed and occupied.
-- 2000: New Jersey company withdraws request for a permit to operate a halfway house for addicted offenders at Fort after residents loudly protest plan.
-- 2002: Town of Colchester initiates push to see whether master plan should be updated.
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What was Christmas like in 19th century Vermont?

- By Vince Feeney -- Correspondent

Christmas, with its fragrant wreaths trimmed with red ribbons, houses brightly illuminated and twinkling trees in living room windows, seems as much a part of the Vermont heritage as maple sugaring.

The late-19th century Christmas lithographs of Nathaniel Currier and James Ives are so Vermont-like, it's easy to assume they must have spent their holidays here. The idea that Christmas and the Green Mountain State were synonymous was reinforced in the American consciousness in the 1940s when Bing Crosby, Danny Kaye, Rosemary Clooney and Vera Ellen rescued a friend's Vermont resort in the film White Christmas.

Ironically, Christmas was a latecomer to Vermont, as it was to the United States in general. According to Stephen Nissenbaum, author of The Battle for Christmas, our Puritan ancestors were hostile to Christmas merrymaking, believing it was no more than a harvest festival thinly disguised as a Christian holiday. Moreover, they knew that the association of Christ's birth with Dec. 25 had no basis in fact, and that traditional European harvest festivals were occasions of hard drinking and sexual licentiousness. For a time in the 17th century, Puritan New England even banned any observance of Christmas.

Over time, of course, this attitude changed. By the middle of the 19th century the Currier and Ives version of Christmas began to emerge, and one can follow that evolution through studying trends and events in Burlington. For example, as late as the 1840s, there was little mention of Christmas in Burlington's newspapers. Dec. 25 was a workday like any other, and unless it fell on a Sunday there were no special religious services.

Christmas trees and all the trimmings were still a thing of the future.

One of the first ads in Burlington announcing the sale of an item as a Christmas gift appeared in the Daily Free Press on Dec. 16, 1848. In this ad Huntington's Bookstore, on the corner of Church and College streets (where Michael Kehoe is located), publicized that it had copies of Harper's Illuminated Bible "in extra gilt binding" suitable as a Christmas or New Year's present. That the item advertised was a religious book would have appealed to the more religiously conservative.

That same month another merchant, George Harrington, announced that for Christmas and New Year's, he had items "for keeping the above days properly -- pale brandys, sherry, bottled port, champagnes and Madeira wines." Harrington, apparently, was of the old harvest festival school of celebration.

By the late 1850s the whole notion of gift giving at Christmastime had expanded. Now almost every store advertising in the Daily Free Press had something to offer for the holidays. One of the new stores on Church Street -- and one that would have a long life in downtown Burlington, the Old Beehive -- advertised on Dec. 12, 1859, that Christmas was coming, and it had shawls and scarves for sale, along with skating skirts and skeleton skirts of two to 30 hoops. In that issue, a grocer named Dewey announced with some pride that he had fresh peaches and tomatoes to sell for Christmas. The availability of such items was made possible only through the then recently completed railroad connections to Southern producers.

Christmas trees began to make their appearance in Burlington in the 1870s, although in a manner different from today. They appeared in public places rather than in private residences. That would come in the 1880s. Churches often displayed them, particularly in rooms used for Sunday schools. They were not just objects to look at, but the centers of holiday season activity. Frequently, a church would announce that "it was having a Christmas tree," meaning a party for children.

The Christmas tradition as we know it today had become established in Burlington by the 1880s.
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